Paralleled Triodes ala Mojave Coyote...
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Paralleled Triodes ala Mojave Coyote...
Sounds (literally) like an interesting alternative to an EF86 channel... thoughts?
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I'm sure it's been done. I've done a couple more JCM-800ish amps, but haven't done a complete plexi preamp in front of the 18watt power section. It is essentially mating a standard Plexi front end like Mark Huss's Pexi6V6 with an 18watt power section. Of course, Mark's amp uses 6V6s, but you can get really good results with EL84s.
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Some of the guys on AX84 have been recently trying parallel triode stages, with the two triodes biased differently - ie with split cathodes. So one might have a low cathode resistor value, say 680 ohms, and the other 1.5k or 2.2k, or maybe even a red LED instead. The result is a shimmery effect in the tone. If you take a typical Plexi first preamp stage, with split cathodes, and jumper the two sides together, you are probably getting the same kind of effect. You could also do something like this with a Lite preamp, by splitting the cathodes and using different value cathode resistors. When I get a moment, I might try out this trick myself.
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I should add there's a couple modern production amps that use parallel triodes for their inputs. Certain smaller Mesa combos do this, and most Rivera amps (R series, Fandango, Quianna, etc) also do this.
If you jumper a Marshall JTM-45 or early Lead (1987) or Bass (1982) amps, then you essentially have the same thing as the Normal channel Hi input on the 1974. If you jumper a 1970ish on 1987, you have a split cathode version.
I think it makes the amp sound fuller, probably due to slight increase in gain and slightly shifted phase of each triode from the other.
If you jumper a Marshall JTM-45 or early Lead (1987) or Bass (1982) amps, then you essentially have the same thing as the Normal channel Hi input on the 1974. If you jumper a 1970ish on 1987, you have a split cathode version.
I think it makes the amp sound fuller, probably due to slight increase in gain and slightly shifted phase of each triode from the other.
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Could one get the same effect with a common cathode resistor, but different plate resistor values?zaphod_phil wrote:Some of the guys on AX84 have been recently trying parallel triode stages, with the two triodes biased differently - ie with split cathodes. So one might have a low cathode resistor value, say 680 ohms, and the other 1.5k or 2.2k, or maybe even a red LED instead.
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Then there's using completely separate cathode and plate resitors, like jumpering a '70 SLP. You could also put all this on a switch to allow shared cathodes or split cathodes.
As an aside, I recently did the switchable one wire (cascade) mod on my 1987x reissue that I converted to a turretboard with a Heyboer OT. I also wired the input jacks to allow me to parallel the channels.
I beginning to think a one channel TMB with a parallel triode into a gain stage and cathode follower would be a very cool 18watt.
As an aside, I recently did the switchable one wire (cascade) mod on my 1987x reissue that I converted to a turretboard with a Heyboer OT. I also wired the input jacks to allow me to parallel the channels.
I beginning to think a one channel TMB with a parallel triode into a gain stage and cathode follower would be a very cool 18watt.
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If you look at the Matchless Lightning that's kind of along similar lines, although done with a Voxish-voiced preamp, rather than a Marshall one. I think I would also do the trick with the separate cathode resistors of different values, knowing what I do now. The tube guitar amp thing is an ongoing learning experience for me....rjgtr wrote:I beginning to think a one channel TMB with a parallel triode into a gain stage and cathode follower would be a very cool 18watt.
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if you have the realstate, do an input like the 18watt lite IIb and use a plexi style input stage;
separate plate R's (100k)
separate cathode R's (680 & 2k7)
separate cathode caps (320 & .068 respectively)
separate coupling caps (.002 & .02)
mixing R's after the volumes, one with a peaking cap on it.
Mix the two and have fun. It's a really cool design cuz the 2k7 / .002 side is bright and the low end never gets mushy and the 680 / .02 side fills it out - adjusted to taste.
separate plate R's (100k)
separate cathode R's (680 & 2k7)
separate cathode caps (320 & .068 respectively)
separate coupling caps (.002 & .02)
mixing R's after the volumes, one with a peaking cap on it.
Mix the two and have fun. It's a really cool design cuz the 2k7 / .002 side is bright and the low end never gets mushy and the 680 / .02 side fills it out - adjusted to taste.
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boy phil, just when I started saying to myself I wish I knew as much as that guy........I guess thats whats so great about this...so few components, and so many tonal options....its a journey, not a destination.The tube guitar amp thing is an ongoing learning experience for me....
Now your going to tell me santa claus aint real. ;-(
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